China

has made us very
recently. (I don't know whose baby this is by the way, sorry if it's yours). If you have a read of Wendy's posts you'll see why. She is now in London having been told residents can only get Chinese visas. The rest of us are in Fuerth still in Germany. I've been trying to confirm our travel and that we can travel to China using the visa waiver for 48 hours. No one tells us the same story so we may have to stay in Germany! Well some parts of Lufthansa don't seem to know about the 48 hours visa waiver so they may not let us on the plane to leave. Hmm Dilemma. So we are now trying to confirm that we will be able to leave.

It also turns out that due to some changes and help that Lufthansa was giving us here we have lost our flights to Auckland on the 22nd. Somehow there was a double booking made and when our travel agent in NZ went to rebook us on they deleted all flights. Hmm.

China's embassies have been generally very unhelpful and Wendy got shouted at yesterday by a Customer service rep in London yesterday. It seems in the end that she didn't need to go to London afterall as we could have got the visa waiver all along. But how to make a big corporation like Lufthansa follow the Chinese rules? The problem is that if they let us on and we are not allowed to enter China they are liable to bring us back here! Hmm.

Henry and Bella are missing their Mum, mostly at night as she always tuckles them in. And in the morning when they wake up to an absence of W power. To top it all off we are all feeling sick. Bella and I had a big sleep yesterday after going out for Weisswurst at Ushi's (Andreas' Mum).
So we are looking a bit...Anyway, today is a new day. Wendy can go visit the Tate Modern rather than mope. Bella, Henry and I are going to Munich for a wee trip. We have borrowed a Tomtom from a friend.
So we can't get lost anymore. We played with it and changed the voice to Ken from Aussie which made Henry laugh and laugh. There is also German of course and lots of other languages. In English for the journey home we might use Lori, the Southern USA woman. Very funny. There are some cool museums to visit in Munich for kids and I'm feeling we need to go see something. Even though we are tired and snotty we have come around the world. We can't just sit here.

We'll update you with more adventures. Must write something about the last 10 days too which have been really fun.

Cavemen

Left, inside a rock house at Haut Castlefranc showing Henry how they built the roofs without any support. (The wood is over the doorway only). Very clever.
Centre, Henry outside the same house.
Right, looking back towards Frayssinet le Gelat, we're feeding the chickens and rabbits.

We're on our last day at Mary Moody's. (Below, it's the three storey one with blue/grey shutters). So we're trying to se up our dwindling supplies of French delicacies. Well I am, Wendy just went shopping, again. Did Cave women shop? How far back does this innate obsession go back?

We didn't find the answer at the Museum of Pre-history 2 days ago. We drove up to Les Eyzies to see the caves and thought we'd see the museum first. Unfortunately once we got going up there and visited a little hill top village on the way we only had time to see the museum. Oh well. It was well done, needed English and other language translations or at least a handheld guide. How spoilt we are! Tomorrow we go back to the area to see a couple of caves.

Some of them are as old as 50,000 years. There are animal paintings all over the area in many caves. One famous one is Lascaux which was being destroyed by the breaths of people visiting so they created another cave which is a copy. Sounds really tacky but it's meant to be good so we might get there tomorrow. Lots of the caves seem to have been damaged when people discovered them, with graffiti, restoration work gone wrong and cave ins once rubble was removed.

It is amazing enough to try and picture the people's lives in the little town and what the town has seen. But seeing the pre-historic caves is mind blowing. Driving along in our airconditioned car we can see caves up in the rock cliff faces and imagine the Cro-magnon people up there.

From Wikipedia: Cro-Magnon (IPA: [kʀomaɲõ] or anglicised IPA: /krəʊˈmægnən/) is one of the main types of Homo sapiens of the European Upper Paleolithic. It is named after the cave of Crô-Magnon in southwest France, where the first specimen was found.

The term falls outside the usual naming conventions for early humans and is used in a general sense to describe the oldest modern people in Europe, though also a specific (but very frequent) subtype among their fossil remains.

(Just so you know!)

We are going to stay 10Kms from Rocamadour, in Gramat. Rocamadour looks amazing from the pictures. We stay one night there then drive back to Montpellier. We might see a bit of Montpellier but we'll see as it might take a while to drive there. We leave the day after flying back to Franfurt Hahn. We're getting a car and are going to try to get visas sorted in Frankfurt for China. After that we're back to Fuerth for Christmas and New Year's.

Here's a cheesy grin for you. I was leaving my face fallow for a while but I've only got a goatee now. It felt a waste to shave off the whole thing. I'm so photogenic don't you think? Wendy can't stand that I always have my eyes closed for photos. I think maybe I have some Chinese ancestry and the camera senses that.

Children

We're starting to think about the future. We've got a month and a half left approximately of this trip. It's gone fast and we've started to think about what we're doing when we go home. We've also started to think about the highlights so far.

I'm reading a book I found on the shelf today. Can't put it down for long as it's getting the brainwaves firing. It's called "The Alchemist" by Paulo Coelho. The bit I'm reading is talking about being in the present. Meaning living life now rather than worrying about tomorrow or yesterday. It made me think these were the best bits of this trip.

Tonight as Bella and Henry were resisting bedtime they started playing a game. They are so inventive, well without the TV on. I love watching TV but I always notice how it dulls their playfullness, sometimes that's a good thing but mostly it just shuts us all down and makes nice little zombies out of us!

They got the basket from the bathroom which is used to hold the spare toilet paper and brought it into the lounge. Once emptied it was big enough for Bella to get into and have the lid close. Henry was very gentle and she didn't mind being his pet for a while. Hiding from people or being carried onto boats or planes and put into the overhead luggage was very funny. Then they decided they'd go on holiday so they packed all their belongings (cushions, cent coins, soft toys, newspaper) in and said goodbye. I asked them where they were off to and they said "the South of France", good choice. They arrived (in the kitchen, very appropriate) and unpacked. Soon they were back from their adventure and telling us about it. Then they packed up to take the train to Rarotonga under the sea for 118 days.

Henry said "I've got my credit card and another one so we can go to any machine" (they've heard us talking about how one machine will work for our cards and another will not. Next we sent them off to do their boring tasks of teeth brushing and getting changed for bed. They came back out nude and crazy. They are such funny monsters I think we'll keep them for a bit longer.

Another moment I remember is the amazing Undie fish. We were staying at a converted farmhouse outside Siena. It had a beautiful infinity swimming pool. They all thought we were mad as it was only 25 degrees or something like that. Henry and Bella were paddling away splashing around then Henry came up with a game. He took off his undies and started throwing them into the deeper water. They bacame...the Undie Fish...duh da duh da. There was a leaf scoop which they used chasing the undie fish around. Very very funny

Earlier today we went to the local restaurant which has been going for over 100 years. Mary Moodie's husband made a doco about it which is here. The food is good hearty food like your grandmother made. Today we had

1. Entree of rustic bread and alphabet soup,
2. Followed by sauteed cabbage with salami, pate and gherkins,
3. Next the main of mique? pork, potatoes, carrots, cabbage all boiled with a big dumpling on top, served with a slice of dumpling,
4. Next a selection of delicious cheeses: goat; camembert, and two other local cheeses
5. Then a choice of desserts: for the kids ice cream for Wendy cheesecake and for me Creme brulee
6. This was topped off by coffee and of course wine was included! You are given a bottle which must be at least a litre and for a table of two that's a good amount to get through (we didn't finish it!)
   

Phew. It wasn't the most gourmand food and it wasn't all tartily presented but it was good honest local fare which would keep you coming back. It was E12.50 each which is a great bargain. We felt like outsiders initially but once all the busyness was over the lovely staff came and chatted to us and complemented Wendy on her excellent French. I stood quietly in the background pretending I was mute. I didn't want to let the family down after that comment. I can understand quite a bit but not if people talk too quickly. Happily I've found I can speak enough to make myself understood, even if I do get some odd looks until I discover I've ordered a train to Marseille instead of beef.

After, we met a very friendly big dog down the road who just wanted to jump. I nicknamed him Tigger he was so jumpy. Wendy went into fits of laughter when he started racing round chasing Henry and bouncing. Tigger was very friendly and wasn't going to hurt Hen but I was a bit concerned that Hen might get knocked over. Once we'd shaken off Tigger Henry and I continued on our plan to walk back through the pooky woods back to the village. (Hen once said pooky instead of spooky and we thought it sounded funny so it's stuck)

We walked past rabbits, sheep, ducks, geese, chickens and really loud dogs. Into the woods where we practiced our Indian tracking skills. Hen loved following the fresh tracks of a dog and a man. We looked for broken twigs when they had to go off track, leaves turned over and scratch marks. Hen said tonight it was his favourite part of the day. Nice

Christmas

This am we got to bed at 3am, in fact we've done that for the last 4 nights. I don't know why but we've been just slow to go to bed. So our days have been starting late too. I guess we haven't been doing that much as the weather is extreme English . Grey, rainy, overcast with downpours and the occasional blast of cold wind, oh actually just like Wellington in the winter! Oh well at least we have consumed a few bottles of wine and shopped for more while cooking up our soupe du jour consisting of chicken, red wine, leeks etc.

The Alimentation owners told us about a local Christmas fair that was on today so that was our plan for today. It was just a short drive away which was easy. The weather wasn't too bad having briefly stopped raining. We got there and they had some yourts (spelling?) and cut out Christmas characters, decorations and a father Christmas. We were slightly confused though as he was dressed in blue? Hmm. Not sure what that's about.

Of course we wandered around sampling the wares. Wendy had a crepe with some spirit on it, I think. We got helium balloons and everyone was writing their name on a card and tying it to it, so we did that too. There was a market with some really nice local stuff. Saw a car with an NZ sticker. There was an guy giving rides to kids on his very funny train. It had about 10 carriages all getting smaller and smaller towards the back with dollies and bears and Barbar the king (elephant) on the back. Very funny.

He had also set up a stall with potato guns, elastic band guns and a crossbow. The crossbow was wooden with metal pipes to hold the potato and inner tubes to provide the power. It was so powerful that kids had to use two hands for each rubber band to prime it. No one seemed nervous about anyone losing an eye.

In NZ we'd have a perimeter of 10m, a full safety back up system in case of systemic failure, an OSH inspector on hand to write a complete report to be presented to the PM the next day and a guy in a hard hat to go and pick up the bits of potato to ensure no one slips on them. Here people casually watched as kids chased each other around with them, fired them at passers by and stood gormlessly in the way of the firing range (I must admit that was Henry actually). It was all good rural fun. The best bit for me was the funny walking bike thing that had a propeller on the top. Henry and Bella both loved going for a ride with me while people watched.

We then came back and had an entree of smoked trout on toast with lemon and a delicious soup made by myself. It is such a nice place to relax, now all we need is some good weather so we can go for a bit more of a wander. Below is a picture of the church which I can hear the bell of right now, must be 9pm. It's just across the intersection from us, we are right in the centre of town. This picture is off the web cos I just didn't want to go outside.

By the way here's a sign from trip to Cahors yesterday. There's a prize for anyone who knows what the abbreviation stands for.
What the?!?

Cigarettes

Phew, cough cough splutter. We just came back from a bar about 50m away after a quick drink. It was a quick drink because it was so smokey. We've got so used to no smoke in NZ that it's a shock even after all these months to walk into the smoke. It was a bit of a deliverance moment. I actually found myself singing the theme tune, loudly, before I realised. The people turned to look at us in unison and said in French "this is a local bar for local people, we'll have no trouble here!" At least that's what I heard as I checked I had my concealed weapon handy.

You'll be pleased to know it all turned out ok. We managed to speak only French so blended seamlessly and looked like maybe we were from the next village. "Bon jaw er bon sewer, un beer sylvia plat mit einer vine rue ge"

Earlier today we drove, and drove, and drove to Cahors which is a city not too far from here. It was amazing to read in our book that it was set up by the Romans. Also found out that one of it's citizens the son of a grocer became the prime minister of France (he resigned after 3 months). Another citizen became a pope and set up a university. No wonder it seems a bit more developed and prosperous than most of the little places around.

Cahors has an undercover market which Wendy wanted to go to. There were peeled rabbits of course, lots of wine, cheeses of all kinds. One cheese called Sec (dry) which looked interesting but a bit like it had rolled under something and been found during cleaning a few years later. "don't worry love we'll call it Sec, that means dry you know, those Frenchies love it " (said in a yorkshire accent). I must admit some of the cheese here is superb, some I leave to the more adventurous with my delicate constitution. By the way this is what I found when I was looking for pictures of ugly cheese.
Like Italy there are little hamlets and villages all along the roads here. I guess when there were only horses and carts or feet it was a long way to the next village. There are so many stone houses that look really old. I love that! We even managed to get back without using the map by recognising the route back. A stupendous effort for us. Wendy was driving though so that makes it easier as long as she takes the directions ha ha...

Calling Adams party of four

I'm embarrassed to say but we did the walk of shame tonight at Jerez airport. Finally we arrived early to an airport!!! We dropped our Europcar smoothly, had our little picnic in the sun outside, then after we'd checked our bags we relaxed upstairs relaxing and yes took Bella to the toilet three times. My friend Chris would say she has a Woolworths bladder, well she's still just 2.

After a while there was an announcement in Spanish and German something about Ryanair blah blah blah. We started getting it all together and moved downstairs, herding the cats. We put our bags on the X-ray machine and all seemed fine. I'll let W tell you about the flying pig! I had taken off my shoes, and any metallic bits. I hate getting patted down...But the man called me over once I'd picked up my bag, took me over to a table and pulled rubber gloves on. Now I was getting concerned but tried to appear calm and not at all guilty. Thankfully he made me open my bag not my fly and after some rummaging found a camera, a tin of olives, a couple of batteries and some stuffed animals. Phew. We then did our walk of shame escorted by a stewardess across the tarmac and down the aisle in front of everyone else. We then found out that someone else was being escorted off by the police for being drunk and disorderly so we were ok. Still embarrassing.

We're now relaxing in the BB hotel Hahn again. We'd left our winter gear here and are now swapping to warm tops and boots and thick jackets. Tomorrow we leave again for France, we land at Montpellier and grab another Europcar for a two week French adventure. I know it is a bit crazy all this popping from country to country and back but Ryanair makes it so easy. We've booked, well Wendy has booked a little house in a quiet village owned by Mary Moody (an Australian writer).

Yesterday we had a busy day in Guadix and came to really like the area. We'd all like to go back. Henry and Bella as they loved rolling in the dirt and climbing the hill above the cave house. Basically we could climb onto it's roof and up above it to the peak above the next cave house. Over behind us we could see a valley with abandoned caves dug into the hill they go on and on all over the area. It was amazing to look at all the caves around and imagine back 400 years when these were first made.

Cuevas

Cave wall writings from two nights ago...

I'm writing this from in our cave. We're staying in Guadix in a cave house we were told about by an English woman whom we met in Granada yesterday. Like dutiful travellers we took the advice, and it's quite an experience.If I look up to the ceiling I can see pick marks in the stone.When we told Henry this morning that we'd be staying in a cave tonight he imagined dripping walls, spiders, stalactites, monsters with big yucky noses, and bits falling in. Sadly for him it's not like that. The walls look dug out but are painted white and plastered in places. It's not a bad temperature inside, outside it's cold about 5 degrees here. We were told the caves keep a regular temperature and that the ground naturally heats the rooms. It'd be nice to have a bit more fresh air but it is a cave, it's not damp though.

This morning we got up slowly after our cocktail night, dragged Henry kicking and screaming into the day. We're not sure why but he was a monster today. Maybe just tired after all the changes and playing with all the big kids at the hostel. Henry and Bella befriended Josh yesterday, a Jewish American boy from Tennessee who plays the accordian for a living and has been for 3 years. He's only 18 and is travelling the world supporting himself by busking. He left school at 15 and home schooled then travelled. He told us last night he's found a cave and a friendly Polish guy and his girlfriend are going to help him fix it up. He is a mine of hints and tid bits for fellow travellers. You hear all kinds of stories from amazing people being in hostels that you'd never know about otherwise. There are quite a few 18 year old Canadian and American students travelling by themselves or with friends between college and University or jobs. I think they are amazingly brave to take off to Morocco, Spain and other countries to explore. There is so much to see though it's good to start early. It's got to be good for the world to have us travel and see how others live.

We checked out of the hostel after consuming our share of the Oasis's toast, pancakes, jam and coffee. We said our goodbyes to many fun and interesting people from Japan, South Korea, Germany, France, Quebec, Canada, USA, Belgium, NZ, Australia, Spain and the UK. Next it was finally time to see...The Alhambra, a fabled place of which travellers speak in prose. We'd had people recommend it to us in Carcassonne Spain and Portugal. We were a bit worried we'd miss out as they only allow limited visitors each day. You can pre-book tickets online but we hadn't arranged anything. There aren't too many tourists about now, the poor people are back at work or waiting until the warmth is back. It's cold now, we thought it would be warm here and didn't bring jackets but I wish I had. During the day it is nice in the sun but in the shade you can shiver.

Anyway, we dragged Henry to a market just one block off Gran Via de Colon for Tapas for a fill up of his engine then we started trudging towards the hill. There were a few signs directing us to the Alhambra but they soon petered out. We followed our noses and this time it worked soon we were on a very steep street up the the old Moorish remains. Tickets were no problem and we also got audio guides which were well worth it for more detailed history. Henry loved having a guide for himself he found each number on the signs and plugged it in to hear about the carvings. It was funny to hear him telling Wendy things from the guide he'd learnt. "Mummy there was a fire and the roof burnt down".

The Alhambra was an unexpected gem. Despite people telling us we must visit it I still wasn't ready for the beauty, tranquility and intricacy of the palace. King Carlos V's palace there was impressive too but the Nasrid princes made something very special. The view over Granada is spectacular, I could have let my eyes wander over the old city for hours, maybe with the assistance of a Vino Tinto or a few coffees. Wendy possibly may have been able to stay still to take in the view for a few more minutes too. I ran my hand over the plaster wall carvings imagining the people that had done the same about 700 years ago. I've been trying to get Henry to take the time to take in the details. He's patient with me at least.

People have said Granada is better than Seville and to spend more time there but I'm not so sure. The Alhambra is stunning, the old city in Seville is stunning as is the Giralda Cathedral. Seville has more of a European feeling, walking through Granada it would be easy to think you are in a Moroccan street. Tea shops line some alleys, especially near the Oasis hostel. Cobbled alleys twist and turn and you soon learn to go in a general direction. Driving gets really interesting instead of trying to go around the block go back, the blocks can be amazingly confusing with one way streets and changes in contours all of a sudden. No wonder these people were such good sailors and explorers. You need an intricate knowledge of the stars just to get home in Granada and Seville.

Cocktails

We're currently in Granada...and drinking cocktails. We've made friends with Martin from Leeds, he looks like a he's from here but no he used to be a barman in Leeds. So far we've tried a Honey bee, a Sacromonte sunset, Tincho's chocolcate orange (Naranja de chocolate). The recipes follow:

Estoy borracho como una cuba - im pissed as a newt, well not yet but we are working on it!

Honey bee
1 honey rum
1/2 vanilla flavour(galliano)
1/2 apple liqor
top with peach an grape juice (melocoton y uva)

shake!

sacromote sunset (sapphire agarve)
1 1/2 tequilla reposado
1 apple sour /apple liqor + lime juice.
pinch of ground cinnamon (canela)
shake
top with pinapple juice

tincho's chocolate orange
1 orange vodka /regular vodka
1/2 dark cacao
1/2 khalua/ cafe liqor
top orange juice
shake

virgin cocktail (no booze)
spiketail/tincho tail
3 raspberries
2 pinapple juice
1 cranberry juice
3/4 passion syrop
shake

That's enough for tonight will be back soon!

Calle Campania

That's where we are. I'm writing this in bed while Wendy gives the little ones tickles before they sleep. We've just got back from dinner around the corner outside a bar/restaurant. We had Jambon soup, patatas fritas aioli con pollo and venison slices with bread. Delicious and the beer was great too. We've just changed time zones back to Spain and it's now midnight here or 11 in Portugal where we've just come from. Oh we're now in Sevilla or Seville by the way. I actually have to think, which city am I in now. I know we've been a bit out of touch again. Same old problem, lack of internet or lack of interest in blogging. It's important to keep up to date though as we're already thinking where was it that we saw the ...

When I last wrote we were in Prague, CZ. We have been on buses, planes, the metro, trains, cable cars, gondolas, trams, driven and had a fun time doing it. First we crossed back into Germany with me driving We got lost again of course. I blame the motorway being closed in Prague where we needed to get on. We went one way then back, then another and back, then randomly found the right road. Part of the problem is navigating at reasonably high speeds without knowing where to go is interesting. Once we were on there was a big pile up and we crawled out of the city. Prague is renovating big stretches of motorway. Europe really is growing and bustling into the 21st Century.

The drive back to Fuerth was uneventful apart from occasional snow storms as we drove along and thick mist which slowed us down. We ended up getting back to Fuerth at about 10 pm after an exhausting drive needing full concentration. I was thinking of Peter Zettinig's advice which is "when you are feeling tired drive faster, it gives you more adrenalin". Hmm still mulling that one over.

The next morning we left to drive to Frankfurt Hahn, bit of a misnomer actually as it's no where near Frankfurt but it's Ryanair's nearest link. We took a couple of wrong turns as it was difficult to know when to turn off. Road signs come up very quickly on the autobahns. Our rental car said maximum speed was 190 Km/hr, we didn't quite reach that but got up to 175Kms. Fast enough for me. We'd suddenly come up to road works and cars would slow to 90 and it's amazing how fast the distance closes. Some people were doing over 200kms in their flash BMW's, Audi's or Mercedes. At 140 we got passed by lots of small 1.3l cars too though. Petrol costs between 1.35 and 1.45 Euros here. We think we've got it hard in NZ with them being at $1.40 or so but that's only about 0.70 Euros per litre. Driving at a lower speed did reduce the consumption amazingly but sometimes we were rushing and paid in extra fuel.

The Hotel BB at Hahn was great and we left at 6:50am to catch the plane. To Faro this time instead of Marrakesh as planned. I'm so glad we changed our plans though because Portugal was great. Lisbon was a beautiful city with various influences from as far back as the Romans. Henry and I went into the Monastery at Belem which has been partly converted into archeological museums. We saw old Roman coins, Bronze age metal work, and how the people there used to make bread from acorns. Henry loved that bit and we plan to experiment when we get home and try out the ancient methods.

We extended our stay in Lisbon as the backpackers was really cool. Oasis Lisbon and Seville are great places to stay. Wendy found them on the web and once we stayed at the Lisbon one we wanted to do it again. Lisbon provided free wireless and for 5 Euros you get a huge meal. The first night we were there Mama didn't expect so many people and so hadn't made "enough food". I couldn't complain though the portions were massive and there was dessert included too. Delicious food thanks Mama, thats not Wendy by the way they have a really nice woman come in each night to make traditional food.

We spent one day having a quiet time as Wendy got a cold and Bella was over tired. We dosed ourselves with a Caipirinha and lemon juice and extreme garlic dishes. We wandered a bit then caught the number 28 tram which goes from hill to hill around the city. Some of the streets it goes down are unbelievable people have to squish themselves against the side so they don't get splatted.

Next day we took an early train out to Sintra to see the Moorish castle and the royal palace. In the garden that surrounds the palace there is a New Zealand section. We came across it by accident and thought this looks familiar. Can't wait to be back in our beautiful country. We are still loving travelling but need to take a break to catch our breath and have time alone. It's not normal to be together with your children non-stop for 6 months. It's easy to just stick together in a new city and not go out alone but it is important to do this too. We need to think about what to do on our return too! Hmm

More later...

Czech Republic with class

Hi all

We are snuggled in our fine apartment hotel in Praha/Prague. It's got a large living room with a comfortable pull out couch. Simple but nice kitchen. Large children's bedroom which we gave to the children, so we can watch TV (although there is not really anything on that we can watch, mostly Arabic programmes). We arrived here last night after driving from Fuerth, Germany where we've been relaxing.

We should be in Morocco all going to plan but no. Henry had his birthday on the 15th Nov and he got sick for his birthday. Was doing helicopter chunders with high temperatures and looked like a ghost. We took him to the Doctor as I thought we'd be able to claim insurance for the loss of tickets to Morocco. They were 1cEuro so non refundable (actually added up to 88Euros once tax etc added). We then found out only travel booked from NZ is claimable. So we used the credit and paid a little extra for changing flights to Faro, Portugal. So that is coming up next week. He's all better now by the way. He didn't actually do Heli chunders but it sounds more dramatic.

Luckily our gracious hosts, (Tiziana below), let us stay on again as we let him recover quietly. He seems fine now and as I write he's jumping on the bed with Miss Muffet who's hair looks like Bjorn Borg currently (she has a very interesting way of putting up her hair with the hair band!). She now has a temperature, yay! She has hot rosy cheeks and is a bit more grumpy than usual. At least she can relax in the buggy as we wander around Prague.

Slacky it's now 10:15 am on Sunday morning and we are just lying around after having gobbled down our breakfast. I called down this am and 5 minutes later we had fresh coffee, milk, orange juice, lashings of bread, butter, jam, ham, cheese and yoghurt and one little tiny thimble of cornflakes (Wendy says no one really likes Cornflakes) - Well my Dad and I like cornflakes but no other sane people. Too much food for us we'll have to make sandwiches ( my father will be so proud of me for saying that. Now if only I could find a way to use the ends of the carrots and dried up bits of cucumber left in the fridge he'd give me a medal!). We're not cheap just have genes that like to remind us they have Scottish ancestry mixed in there somewhere with all the other bits and bobs and gristle. You never know there could be an emergency one day and we'll be glad of the things growing under the bottom tray in the fridge. Hopefully not.

Ok enough blah blah. So we drove from Fuerth along the E50, Andreas told us it will take you all the way to Prague. We believed him! Oh dear...It was all going well but after about an hour of driving, 3 toilet stops, a coffee stop, a snowball fight and 12 arguments about how Wendy should hold the map, we came to the end of the E50. And we were'nt in Prague or even Praha, (not even Czech Republic) and no signs pointed that way. Hmm. We drove this way and that, I thought I'd broken the car as I pulled off to turn around and there was a big hole, ouch. it seemed to still drive ok only a slight dragging sound coming from underneath. Wendy re-orientated the map making sure the longest edge was lined up with the edge of her coffee cup and covering my steering wheel almost completely. I must give her credit as in the maelstrom of roads and spaghetti junctions she guided us back to the right road. I had to stop, I was in shock and couldn't breathe.

Again we drove and drove and eventually came to the border. I pulled our passports out as the border looked kind of intimidating and we were waved through. Entering CZ you have to buy an autobahn pass. So we got one of those and didn't exchange any Euros at their bad rate. All was going well. Soon we saw signs to Pilzn/Pilsen and decided to stop. It's in the Lonely planet and is worth a look. They specialise in meaty dishes of traditional fare with buckets of beer. I was driving but tried the Pilsner and declared it good. The wild boar ragout, Pilsner Goulash and Roast beef with dumplings sauerkraut and gravy went down a treat. Also food is really inexpensive here compared to the rest of Europe, we paid 24 E for our meal with 1 entree, 2 soups, 3 mains, 2 beers, 2 juices, 3 coffees and a Becherovka liquor. In Germany this might have been 45 - 60 Euro.

We went for a wander around the centre looking at buildings. There is a beautiful church in the middle and amazing buildings around, apart from one realy ugly hotel. It was raining and dark though so we didn't want to go too far. But we all needed a stretch. Wendy honed in on an internet cafe so we trudged in and visted Albert and Hubert the Cockatiels. Wendy printed off the driving directions then we went to pay. Only Krona sorry and I only had two. A helpful Welsh stranger helped out our by paying for our internet. We offered to pay him in Euros but it was only 70p to him so not a big deal I guess. Thanks nice Welsh stranger.

With our directions we were set. And within 30 minutes we were hopelessly lost once again. The Czech's have adopted the French street sign system of having signs occasionally for looks but making them so small that unless you are stopped and standing on a ladder with a torch in front of them they are practically useless. We drove and drove and drove knowing that stopping for directions would only cause embarrasment and add to our overall unease. Eventually I gave in at a petrol station, partly as Bella needed to "GO TO THE TOILET", at the top of her lungs. The helpful man circled where we had to go and off we went. Driving in Prague is not easy, it is a very old city and wasn't damaged in the WWII by bombing. Many cobbled streets and trams criss cross the roads. Also at night in the rain it's hard enough to even see the lanes. We made it to within a Km of our hotel but were stopped by the road turning into a cycle lane. The best map I could find wasn't at a very detailed level but it would have to do.

We backtracked and drove around the embattlements(?) the map doesn't show that you have to go around and over a big hill that way and that every second road is a one way. Suffice to say we got here but I drove:

1. On the wrong side of the road into oncoming traffic once
2. Through a parking building once and back out the same way (we didn't have to pay thankfully)
3. Along the tram lines on a special raised centre platform for 100m
4. Up a one way street for one block
5. Through a one way pedestrian area in the old city and back out

It's true. Unfortunately I find it hard to read the map and drive and Wendy has to re-orient the map at every turn. I at last decided I would stop after every turn to give her a chance to catch up. Hard to plan a route when we are forced to turn onto another bit of one way every few blocks. All was great here and they spoke perfect English. Wendy couldn't stop raving about the nice room and is still going on! We're about to go see some more of Prague now. As you can see from above we've seen quite a bit already. My impression so far is of a beautiful majestic city with many grand buildings. We'll let you know how it goes.

Campagne champagne Comte

We just got back to Furth, Germany. We've been all over since leaving Switzerland.
First we went through France after picking up a rental car at the Geneva airport. Here's a bit I wrote last week.

Campagne champagne Comte

We're in Poligny where the Polignists come from! Actually they make great cheese here. Yesterday we left our little apartment in Montreux, said goodbye to Ann and Berny. They kindly picked us up and dropped us at the Montreux railway station. Many thanks for your hospitality and great food, we really enjoyed the relaxed space you provided for us. We continue with our stomaches full and family connections renewed.

On the train to Geneva we met a German speaking man. He shot out of the compartment when we went in. We were thinking we'd chose to be in a non child freindly bit too if we could. But a few minutes later he came back all sullen and ashen faced. He sat down and almost broke down...He said something terrible has happened to me. We prepared ourselves for the worst (internally going, lalalala). Out came a story of his favourite jacket which he'd just relined for 250 Francs ($300 dollars approx) this is a jacket he loved. He spoke about it like a favourite dog or even a child? Describing it's softness and silky lining the rich black colour, how many years he'd had it, how much he loved it. He was almost in tears! He'd gone into one compartment then changed and forgotten his jacket. I was thinking ungenerously get over it already and claim insurance. Wendy listened for over an hour soothing him with her empathy and kind words. We even had to buy the man lunch and she gave him my jacket to make him feel better. (Actually I made that last bit up, but she was thinking it!!! He gave us a 5Fr voucher for coffee on the train that the nice conductor had given him).

At the airport we again walked to France. The French looked all serious and there were forms to fill in. Thankfully I asked if I needed to fill them out before we went through. The guys asked us for our passports then looked at the nice rich dark blue colour checked they looked like passports from a distance with the requisite thickness then grunted "Merci". We took them back, do we look that dirty that they don't want to even touch them? I mean have you smelt their cheese? Odd they didn't even look at our nice photos we'd had specially tinted to have year round tans and stunningly luminescent eyes! Oh well. We do feel slightly ripped off though. Imagine going through the States after this it would seem like a full rubber glove treatment in comparision. Why did I have to spend so much on a passport, I could have brought my Mickey mouse club ID card, (not that I have one hehherher) Enough about passports, sorry it will not be mentioned again.

On a more serious note, there are many reminders of the terrible battles that have taken place here. Just near Rennes sur Loue, a tiny hamlet in Jura, we saw a small stone plaque saying "Quand on n'a pas tout donne on a rien donne. Ici Pierre Dole volontaire F.F.I est tombe le 2 aout 1944" (Roughly "When you haven't given everything you have given nothing"). Carpe diem!

Cable cars and more catch up

It's fall here and a beautiful time in the Riviera. Trees are turning golden and the mist is hanging on the lake. We've had a nice relaxing time here and we're off tomorrow to Geneva then France. First we have to say goodbye to Berny and Ann who have been very generous to us while we've been here. Ann made us lunch, roast chicken in breadcrumbs, one of Henry's favs. Then we went for a walk up the hill past the Chateau de Blonay and played in the park to work off the meal and Gin! Oh and wine. Sorry Berny we tried to help clear out the cellar but didn't make much of a dent. Ann saw smoke reflected in a train window up the hill a bit so we rushed to see if the historic train was in action. We made it just in time and climbed on. Once again trainspotter Henry was over the moon. It's a great little ride up and up to Chambly at the end, Hen even got to go into the engine with the engineers after I asked in my funny misspoken French.

Ann and Berny picked us up in their cars at the top and drove us back for pasta. It was going to be Fondue but we all agreed that could be dangerous. After another delicious meal and more great wine from Bordeaux we were chauffeured back to the nice hostel in the main square of Vevey. The next day Berny treated us to his famous Fondue wow. It was more than I expected especially with the Kirsh which packs a punch. I've been a bit off cheese since my mum made me sandwiches for school when I was 6 and at lunch they'd be warm and sweaty but Berny's Fondue helped bring me back to the cheese fold.

Each day we've done a few things here. We got the Funicular up the hill to 800m and walked back down. Bella fell asleep before we went up and didn't wake up until we got to the top. She was so sad about missing it! Poor little monster, she has got to go on two more since then though so is cool about it now. We walked back down from Mt Pelerin through meadows of cows and fruit trees and vineyards. Kind of not what we expected. It's funny cos when you are down on the lake edge Vevey and Montreux look like cities as they've got lots of high apartments. The populations aren't very big though only 15 - 20K we've been told.

The trains and buses are great here, really often and very clean and new. Much tax dollars spent here. We've really enjoyed our little sample of Switzerland. We could have tried to see lots and felt rushed but it was nice to wander and sample some of the Riviera at a more relaxed pace. We'll miss your clean green towns Switzerland. Tomorrow we have a car waiting for us at Geneva airport, we're off to the Maginot line!

Chateau de Chillon - catch up

Once again I've had more important things on my mind other than my blog! So it's got holes as big as lake Geneva throughout it. We've been in Switzerland for 5 days and I've written nothing...so once again I must do my duty. It's not that bad and also I'm not going to work each day, it's the least I can do.

We drove into Geneva from Chamonix in our little rental Polo diesel VW, very economical if you are looking for a new car. The day before we drove at 120 - 130 km/hr the whole afternoon on the highways (apart from many little people toilet stops and big people coffee stops), with no problems from France through Italy to France. Anyway getting to Geneva was interesting. We drove down the mountain which was beautiful, the roads in Europe really are extremely impressive if at times v expensive. The tunnel was 30E and we'd already spent lots that day on tolls. They make NZ look like a little country town although we have the population of a small city in our whole country I guess. Once we got to Geneva we had to go through Swiss customs. We expected at least a quick check of the car for contraband but we didn't even have to show our passports. I don't know why they bother to have people there. They could achieve as much with big cut outs with those eyes that follow you as you walk by. They freak me out...They didn't even have rubber gloves poking out of their pockets to dissuade you from trying to bring in the white stuff.

Well once we got past that we were into Swiss land, once again we were doomed to say all the wrong words and try to speak Italian or Spanish. Dropping the car at Geneva extremely international airport was as we'd been told a big pain in the bottom. We followed the instructions from the car company carefully and rapidly became mired in the outskirts of Geneva following tiny signs intended as per the French way to help locals who know the way find where they want to go. Although the locals would go the direct route. Wendy was driving which meant I'm trying to find the little signs with my squinty pointy eyes and only just seeing them a moment before we need to turn. Otherwise I'm driving and Wendy is reading something or talking to me about some idea for opening a small animal farm for deprived kids and not looking for signs. Well after much driving we arrived...At the Swiss side. At first we weren't sure if we were in the right place but I went to talk to the guy and he said everyone does this, gave me instructions in English thankfully, and gave me a map to the French side. It looked easy, and as long as drove at walking pace we didn't miss any turns. The French side true to form had no sign for car drop off. They just know, somehow, the French are amazing. All cool though with the helpful man's instructions. Oh and no border control into France from Switzerland the French don't even make a show of it.

The airport was kind of cool for people from a place with no countries around them. We walked from France to Switzerland dutifully handing over our passports, which I think the border control thought were contaminated. They didn't want to touch them again. Swiss people are very clean so understandable. We smuggled ourselves through customs declaring ourselves fit to travel. We were in the country of Fondue, chocolate, swiss knives, swiss clocks, neutrality, lakes and mountains etc.

We quickly bunged all we could fit that we didn't need in the next day in the lockers. Phew! aaahhhhhhh no stuff to carry. After we drop off our stuff we always wonder what the other stuff is and whether we need it. Im sure we are going to find we've had a small circus travelling with us incognito and going out to do shows while we are asleep. How they get out of the lockers I don't know?

Anyway then we went to buy warm stuff for the land of cold. I had no jacket and the kids had to wear all their clothes at once to stay warm. Our first evening in Geneva there was a big wind and it made us long for winter in Wellington (how odd). We were revived after some typical Swiss food. Roast duck, spring rolls, stirfry prawn and green tea, mmm just like home. After that we needed dessert of course so went wandering in the cold, it had got even colder so we pulled down our warm hats, pulled up our hoods and walked off cooly in our Crocs and socks.

Just by our hostel we found a creperie which looked nice. Wendy ordered a crepe being a smart woman. I as per usual had to have something a little more tricky and involved, why, why, why??? There was a beautiful Movenpick menu with glossy pictures of tall glasses and round balls of ice cream topped off with various delicacies. I chose the coffee deluxe super extra rich cafe supreme au chocolate with sprinkles. Looked good. Wendy dug into her crepe, mmm. I waited and waited and waited. Then the guy came back and said "sorry I have no coffee ice cream". Ok, I chose vanilla instead, almost as good. After a little longer my icecream came...but it had no espresso shot, so I queried it. Although the man looked surprised at me wanting a shot in it, even though it was in the picture he dutifully put one in. A massive one which made the whole thing into mush. Ok, I tried it, walnut ice cream. I took it back and tried to contain my complete disbelief until Wendy had finished. When we went for the addition the man said "I have not charged you for the ice cream" gee I'd hope not!!!

Son of Caca

We are now in Carcassonne. Translated in English to ¨Son of Ca ca¨. Surprisingly for the son of ca ca town there isn`t much of it around. We aren`t doing the dance of the French to avoid it quite so much. While I`m on the subject these keyboards are impossible if I type aithout looking this is whqt i get888. It will never do. Driving me mentql having to watch every key . I`m sure they did it just to plqy with English ,inds!!! Aaaarrgh

Carcassonne is a medieval town in Catalane territory still, south of France. We`ve found a great hostel called Sidsmums. It is very relaxing here and a reasonable rate, the french keyboard is infuriating but apart from that everything is great. Nice people looking after the place, they have volunteers help out and there are a Canadian and Irish couple currently volunteering here. henry went for a walk with them tonight in the dark with George the dog, who is the splitting image of the dog from Fraggle rock if you`ve ever seen that! Henry and Bella just want to be here the whole ti,e and play with him and the cat, forget the Medieval castle with Disneyland like spires etc...Funny we thought they`d like that.

New exciting news also at hand. We are now officially going to Morocco if I haven`t mentioned that. All my fish wife nagging has finally paid off. Wendy is quite nervous, as am I if I ever admit it. We are flying there on Henry`s birthday. I thought how cool to maybe ride a camel for his 6th birthday but he said Ï want to choose what I want to do!¨ fair enough I guess. I thought it would be cool but I`m not 6. Almost 1 am here was this late last night too so must off to bed. Have been sampling local red wines tonight with the other Hostel dwellers and playing quick scrabble. Much fun and laughter. Tomorrow we go see the castle if we can drag the kids away from George.

Caca

There are a whole lot of dogs here. There are funny signs about respecting your town and picking up what you've left! Hasn't had a noticeable effect though. Wendy has perfected her Poodar. I like to tease her and almost step in it. Henry walks straight through then says "what?" like we haven't been shouting at him to avoid it. Poor boy though the whole pavement is covered in places like one of those Modern art experiments with new materials. Wendy is very happy that Bella has picked up the poordar gene too.

We are still in St Cyprien but moving on tomorrow. Still haven't arranged where we are going tomorrow. We want to go somewhere more authentic. I'm over sandy beaches, much prefer the more interesting beaches like at Torrevieja in Spain or Portbou where you can swim with the fish and look at interesting nooks.

It has been very quiet here which has been good for us all. It could be nice here with friends as you'd hang out here and chat. People here haven't been very friendly. I said bonjour in the morning and a couple of other things to the man next door with 3 children and nothing. Not a word. Once again there seem to be a good amount of Germans here. It is off season now and so no activities and mostly jusy depresed people wandering around who couldn't afford a decent holiday somewhere nice. Oh, like us. Ha ha.

Today we walked around for 4 hours or so. Haven't found any cafes here with coffee which is weird, I thought French were very into coffee. So we are doing an enforced detox, until we find it again. I haven't had coffee for 2 days and have had some amazing headaches. The last of the Tylenol is finshed...aaarrrgh. We haven't even got tea. Have had to revert to Coke with it's 52 chemicals and 1/3 sugar.

We missed the rugby last night had to suffice with text updates on the lap top. We had planned to watch France play NZ at a local bar but it got too late for the littles. Gutted about the result even though I don't normally follow it. I couldn't gloat heartlessly to the unfriendly guy next door and have had to try and avoid him.

We saw a live Octopus last night at the harbour looking like a blog of jelly lying on a rock. Hen loved that.

Tomorrow we aim to get the f!@# out of here to some place nice. Carcassonne is calling with it's great sounding castle. Hopefully it will not be as bad as it sounds in high season. Packed with tourists at 30C is not my idea of a nice holiday.

Cor blimey cobber

Saint Cyprien plage

We've just arrived this afternoon. Not looking too promising, Wendy and I even had to have a hug we were so depressed on arriving...I know weird. Wendy says "it's not bad it's just that we've had good places" she puts on a brave face and whimpers into her hands quietly...while begging me to go and get toilet paper from the office as they don't provide it here. OK!

Anyway we'll update you later. Not sure how this will go we may be returning to Spain tomorrow.

Composte, Change de Pays

We're in France. Quel let down!!! We caught a taxi from Portbou over to Cerberes. It cost E15 but was cool. In 2 days we've got to like Portbou. This morning we went to the port, blogged, walked up the hill to see the monument to Mr BenjaminWe had our last beers at Cafe d'art with Phillipe et David and said our Adioses and Aurevoirs.

Going over the mountain took 15 minutes and there was a great view. We took a few pics and passed through border control without even being waved on. Our driver said customs take turns. One day French the next Spanish. We're now in Cerberes International railway station!!! Wow. Now I had no pre-impressions of here but I'm having to hold myself back from going to French stereotypes. This station does not honour an entrance to France. Of course the children needed to go to the toilet...

Henry came back saying "Mummy come and see the bugs" which she politely declined. Then Bella needed to go. I drew the short straw. First there was a dirty floor, dirty spray painted walls THEN I SAW THE STALLS. One had been sprayed by someone who needed to eat a lot of bread, rice, apple and toast. The second had flies covering it like wallpaper, I think even they didn't want to be in the first one! The third was no better. Bella and I washed our hands like we'd suddenly developed OCD. Holes in the ground be damned I'll be holding on until Germany. Only 3 weeks to go.

The waiting room needs a thorough clean or perhaps a fire bombing, I know that sounds extreme but I'm not sure superman with the big green clean machine could achieve much here.

I cross my fingers, toes and legs while I wait/espere/attente for the train.

Conversation

Out of order post

We are sitting at the port of Portbou checking messages, feeling the sun on us while the children play at floating walnut shells in the sea. Henry has found lots of little sea creatures which he's been putting into walnut shells with sea water. Very funny.

While Wendy was using the computer I was handing out walnuts to people near us. First some English types, they didn't say much but liked the walnuts. We got the walnuts at the market which is here today, the man was very generous, way too generous and so we had to start giving some away. He was also selling big bags of live snails. The poor things were trying to get out of the mesh bags but could only get their bodies out. Henry said "they'll escape", I didn't think so but he said "They can get out of their shells

Catalunya

We're now in Portbou. Try finding it on a map! The accent has noticeably changed. The Spanish is written and said differently here. Words for some things we'd got used to have changed. Like toilets are no longer Servicios. Catalan is softer and the lisp sound has gone too. Interesting, not better or worse maybe a little easier for our untrained tongues.

We had a great time in Madrid apart from spending way too much. But hey it's part of the adventure. We tossed and turned about where to go next. We really are making it up as we go along. I wanted to return to the sea or to some medieval town with towers and mosques? Wendy felt it was time to move on to Franca and try out our school French (actually she did it until Uni but anyway). We eventually agreed on some Fou do fa fa...But we haven't quite made it yet, we are 3Kms from the French border in Catalan country. It almost fit all criteria. We wanted something a little smaller and you can't get too much smaller.

Portbou used to be the border town but now the border has been moved or they use a town a little further way. Borders seem less important so far in Europe, the EU has lessened border control. Portbou has a massive train station for such a small place, (it's as big as the town including the sidings), and you can see from wandering around it a bit that there used to be a lot more business here. Hotels have closed and some parts of the town are a little in need of some love/investment. Doer uppers going cheap! I really like it here though. Partly it's quieter than the city and we feel a little special being able to visit without throngs of people. Last night we were the only people in the restaurant (L'anchore, great food). It's off season now as it has got colder, Autumn is on it's way and the tourists have blown away leaving a sleepy little village. The French are still driving over for dinner and moin cher booze. The people who rent the kayaks are on holiday and the restaurants are planning on closing soon for a well deserved break. So we got a bit of a bargain. We walked into town from the train a day ago with all our bags and made it to the playground where the littles made themselves at home. I went wandering to check out accomodation. Wendy was talking about if we don't find a place we'll get back on the train and go to Perpignon or somewhere bigger where we can find accomodation. This little place intrigued me and the quiet appealed to the country boy side of me. Devizes in my blood.

So after a quick walk around I went to talk to a cafe owner who had a little sign offering habitacions, chambres, rooms. I had my best Spanish prepared but he was French, car meme. So then my brain got all confused and I was speaking, Spanglaise, a new hybrid that surprisingly did the job. I thought the rooms must be above the cafe and was looking for the stairs but...He said follow me and we set off. Down the hill, around the corner, down another hill, around a few more corners, through a nice tree lined petite avenue and into a once grand old building. We picked our way past skill saws, sawdust, plaster and paint and two Eastern European labourer types. Then he set off spritely up a winding staircase and we climbed and climbed up to the 4th floor. The rooms looked great, Karen Walker colour palette very now very cool. Air conditioning although it is only just needed now. Nice bathrooms, brand new but needing a slight finishing touch on one. They were missing a bit from one of the showers it isn't quite attached to the wall. Anyway as you can tell I took it, after the obligatory check with W of course. She said nervously "if you think it's good we'll take it", phew. We found one bathroom is slightly smelly I think from the washer on the one shower not being correctly done. Hey it's cool not a biggie and it'll be fixed next week. I think the plumber was slightly rushing that day? We agreed to take it for two days including breakfast at $35 each room, so $70. Seems like a good deal to me. I'm sure once it's finished and the entrance is up to scratch it'll go for a lot more in high season. I would definetely stay here again.

It has been relaxing here, I went swimming in the sea yesterday. Was cold getting in but then fine. Wouldn't stay in for an hour but it was nice. The water here is very clear. I think it's because the sediment is quite coarse here. Fine gravel instead of sand so it doesn't float so much. You can see easily 10m. There are lots of fish and they are curious and almost wanted to get touched it seems. Henry and Bella had a great time playing and Bella had a sllep with W on the beach. One not so nice thing about the beach is that people let their dogs go on the it. Not so nice, one does need to be observant. There are three other little beaches which are just a couple of minutes walk where it's cleaner. Today we walked and climbed around the corner and very gingerly picked our way along the cliff path. Henry falls over all the time and this was not a good spot to do a Charlie Chaplin act. Much hand holding later we sat down and looked back at Portbou. A nice little town with an interesting past and many stories to tell.

One story here is of Walter Benjamin, a Jewish-German philosopher who committed suicide here 26th September 1940. He had escaped from France over the Pyrenees to Spain on his way to the United States. When he got here he was exhausted and stopped to rest at a hotel. He reported later to the Spanish authorities as he thought it was the right thing to do. He found he would be deported and so committed suicide in his hotel room with poison. There is now a memorial to him designed by Dani Karavan, Passagen. We haven't made it there yet but we'll walk up to it tomorrow. From the pictures it looks like a long slice into the hillside with a glass ending. Maybe signifying the journey Walter took. I read in the town something like Walter Benjamin felt he carried a hunchback of bad luck. He wasn't destined to have an easy life. It adds a depth to this little border town to have a dark story of despair told on the corners of a darker time. Gestapo were in this village during WWII. I can't imagine what it was like to have that in the background going about your business here over 60 years ago.

Cool Madrid pics

Madrid pics - not mine

Costly

We got ripped off today. Our fault but I wish we'd put up more of a fuss. Wendy threw out the train ticket when we got off the train at Atocha station and we couldn't get out without it. The Bastardoes charged us $16.60 as a fine. I ask you people with two young children getting that fine. We obviously had just made a mistake. Anyway we paid it like the good English heritage types we are. Then we walked and walked and walked trying to find a nice cafe/restaurant with reasonable food with no smoke! The last criteria is the most tricky. We finally found one Tapas del Mondo (Tapas of the world) ordered reasonably but found we'd ordered large once the cuenta came. The portions were small but with a big price. But of course we no make a fuss. I felt p'd off after we'd paid but it was too late by then. Next time I will grow some Cahones!!!
The main thing we did today was go to the Palacio Real (royal palace). Truely amazing unbelievable and not expensive. Henry loved the Armoury we were all awe struck by the opulence. I can see why there have been so many revolutions. How did the Royal families ever survive when any commoner saw the rooms in these palaces. You need to see it to believe it.

Croissants

Am sitting in a self service laundry in Madrid! Poor us...ha ha. Anyway while the washing is drying wecan use the internet, not too expensive. We got to Madrid last night from Murcia where we stayed in the same hotel as John for a couple of days at vast expense and then stayed in a place half the price whch was nice, quiet, had a great cafe just below and was really friendly.

So last nght after getting the train here we checked into the hotel, only $60 E per night about $120 which is pretty good here. Really friendly people in a cool old building hundreds of years old. Then went out for dinner and managed to completely blow the budget by trying some of that really expensive ham. the one fed on Acorns! $20 E for a plate of very thinly sliced aged ham Iberico. V V V delicious and now we´ve had it I can safely avoid that great expense. Anyway was a cool night out just around the corner from where we are staying. We sat at the bar with the kids and chatted to the staff a bit, chilled after our day of travel, had a few beers and amazing food. After we wandered and saw Buzz Lightyear on his stag´s night from the UK for the weekend! Funny guys. Had Helatos (ice cream) then got back at 12:30 am the kids were great.

This am we went out for croissant, coffee, Sumo de Naranja (Orange juice). Then did wash and went to another cafe while it was drying. Hey we´re on holiday. Once it´s all finished we´ll wander back to drop it all off then Henry and I are going to the science museum and W is going to th Prada Museum with much amazing art. It´s Sunday here so a quiet day after all the partying here last night. We read that it´s not uncommon to get traffic jams in Madrid at 4am! Cool city. Loving it so far.

Caldera, Caliente

!Hola!

We're still in Spain...and loving it. I think so far I prefer the Italian countryside as there are so many lovely towns, villages and hamlets there. Here places seem more spread out and newer. Development has been so rapid recently there are construction sites everywhere. New hotels, appartments and offices going up all over the place. I counted 11 cranes coming into Murcia 2 days ago. Oh yes, were in Murcia a town about 30 Km from the sea. We came here to visit my Uncle John Roff.We had a very relaxing time in Torrevieja at Jardin Del Mar V. Jardin we've found out said with a big hoick, hhhhchardin (sounds like Arabic to me!) I don't know if this is a hang over from the times when the Spain was part of the Arab empire (Moors).

We went swimming each day either at the pool by the complex or in the Mediterranean. The sea was really warm. I stayed in for a couple of hours floating and playing with the kids and trying to catch fish for Henry. It was a good cool down after much crazy time. Hen has got a lot more confident. He didn't like putting his head in the water before but at the end of this he was diving under and holding his breath swimming under me.

Henry got to go on a submarine in the harbour with Wendy one day. I was dissapointed I couldn't go on but there was a height restriction and Bella was under it ( much crying), so I stayed with her and we counted fish.

We've been searching out Menu del Dia here. Basically a set menu of traditional food. First course, second course. bread, wine, desert and coffee all included for 8 - 10 Euros it seems. We've tried it 4 times now and it has been great. Really good value. After that for lunch who needs dinner. Paella, said "Pie ay a".

Caldera is it seems a cauldron of Paella. Beautiful. Only just had it and am sitting here watching BBC TV feeling stuffed. Must go for a big swim tomorrow!

Cuidad, country changes, caliente, communists

Well here we are again. Just leaving Barcelona ( the smelly city), I guess it's a big city thing, many apartments feeding into hundred year old sewers. NYC was a bit like this but with the heat here it sneaks up and cuddles you into it's foul miasma not letting go until you submit to the next cloud of foulness. There are non smelly bits but it does seem to catch you up again just so you don't think you are somewhere else. Once again we've been rushing, not sure why apart from we haven't found any cheap places to stay in the city. Maybe a bit more asking around rather than trying to rely on the internet? We did find a place but they only had one day free in an apartment normally a long term rental. Anyway. We've seen some amazing cities and we got a cheap flight here from Verona so we are slighty over seeing cities for now.

Travelling with children is very different from the usual dragging yourself around many museums, sights, bars...We've seen lots but I've been a little frustrated about not seeing more. The kids get tired in this heat, maybe 25-30 deg C today in Barcelona. No wind and it's humid so sweat is the word of the day. Henry has found it a bit tough and has been quite grumpy recently. We've found that tough and maybe told him off a bit much. So we're working on having longer in each place (I think I already said that but we're still working on it!!!). So today we are travelling to Valencia (for one night) then onto Alicante and a small town nearby, Torrevieja, for a week.

We've found a house which is totally kitted out for a long stay owned by an English woman. It has a pool and is a short bus trip from the beach. So sounds cool. We'd like to do more of this while still visiting sights of Europe. It'll give the children some time to relax and get used to one place. They do need some routine poor little monsters. I know we're on holiday but it's kind of tiring all the travelling, I'm looking forward to sitting by the pool and drinking many Moscow Mules. I have been carrying a big bottle of vodka since Frankfurt and for the purposes of lightness it needs to be consumed.

Moscow Mule
Vodka a couple of shots I reckon
Lime squeezed onto the vodka and dumped in
Ice
Ginger beer poured on top liberally
I think that's it, but hey will do

(I already feel like I am maybe in a coma and dreaming all this so probably won't even notice the alcohol?)

In the last few days we've travelled through Tuscany. Seen some of Verona and had a delicious meal there by the Verona river in the historic town. The old towns in Italy and it seems Spain so far are so well preserved. I really feel like you can sense people walking through the streets over a thousand years ago. Isn't that just unbelievable some of these towns and cities have records of land transfers from 1000AD or even 710AD. No wonder the sewers can get a bit pongy!

Yesterday I was thinking it's funny that in NZ and the States it's becoming a big trend to have farmer's markets but here they've been having them for many many years. They are more in touch with their food origins, celebrating the seasons and the harvest. I was also thinking I'm going to write to Helen Clark about stuff. I keep noticing all the cars, scooters and bikes here.It's unusual to see a gas guzzling LA/ Lower Hutt mobile. Certainly no Hummers. Petrol here is double NZ so fuel efficiency is more necessary. We think we're so clean and green. We might have quite a bit of luscious countryside and forest but I think it's more to do with the fact that no one lives in NZ!!! We have less population than a reasonable size city in most other countries. We recycle our glass, bottles etc but here I've even seen compost bins for public use for biodegradable items. Now I don't know how well the system works. And I've got no chance of having a conversation about it with someone here ( I can only just order a coffee). But I think we can be a leader in this area. Here they have recycling bins in public places instead of just throwing it all away. We can do better. Enough of a rave on Eco stuff. We do have good sewers anyway.

By the way...We had a Kiwi pilot from Verona to Girona (Barcelona) on Ryanair. They seem to climb very quickly and descend like they are in a dogfight. It did make me wonder if he'd saved up his weetbix vouchers for a pilots license? With pilots like him who needs terrorists? But we did get safely to the ground...people applauded...like our other Ryanair flight from Hahn to Venice. It makes me wonder if they don't make it very often. I've only been on one other flight like this, coming into Wellington from Christchurch. I can understand it more there we have rain, gales and an airport runway that is smaller than a Wal mart car park. The flight attendant said he hadn't noticed anything. Maybe I'm just paranoid or I've become a scaredy girls blouse at 35? Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaargh. Oh no now I remember I was already a girl's blouse, feeling better. Need a beer grr grr.

Also, either there are KGB agents following me or there are a lot of Russian/Eastern European people here. At Verona bus station there was a group of drunken, Slavic types and there are a couple of Russian guys sitting two seats ahead of me. Oh no it's one but he's on the Bluetooth seemingly talking to himself incessantly. The Germans are everywhere still of course and the odd Aussie along with many Brits dressed as badly dressed as me. I wish I had a bit more Euro style but I'm not sure I could pull it off. I might accidentally get guys hitting on me? Oh and we saw our first Transgender sex worker two days ago. Thankfully Henry didn't notice the extra big feet and the going up to crawling cars. If you can get into Verona without going to the main train/bus station it's best. Only one bathroom which you pay for and then .only one stall working. I was getting to the busting stage and went in after much digging for change. An old guy came out and a very large dark guy went in, then 5 teenage guys came in and were waiting. Not keen anymore I retreated to reabsorb my last meal. Just like NY there are mostly only loos in bars and restaurants and these are pretty variable. Take a peg and build up your calves so you can hover as often there's no seat. Ok enough for now I've finished where I started...sorry.

Canals, Churches, coffee, children

Phew an internet connection! Not so easy in Italy.

We're in Quatro d'altimo, near Venice (20 mins train ride). In the last few days we arrived in Franfurt and caught the bus to Hahn it's an hour long trip and we all fell asleep on the way one by one. Just made it with about 20 mins to spare before boarding for Treviso, Italy.

At Treviso we were meant to meet Peter Zettinig (our Austrian friend from NZ), but we waited and waited and waited. We were starting to think about booking somewhere for the night when he showed up to pick us up. Poor guy had taken 3.5 hours to get to the airport because of road works and bad traffic. We walked to the car about 200m away and it started to rain, getting heavier and heavier. Looking up it was that big fat rain about the size of pidgeon poo. Worrying! So we hurried as much as you can with two tired children and too many bags. Then it started to hail and it was the biggest hail I've ever seen. About the size of marbles, poor Bella on my shoulder was crying and we got soaked. Luckily they didn't hurt.

Peter thankfully drove us safely despite the challenging weather. We arrived at the Hotel Rex in Bibione. People staying there are generally German speaking, German or Austrian. So we brushed up on our non existant Italian and German too. "Eine Eis per favori?" sorry about the spelling.

This is a really popular spot with a great beach. Amazing though the seats on the beach. They look like rows of headstones from a distance. Close up it is unbelieveable the rows upon rows of deck chairs and umbrellas. The weather was sunny but with a cold wind. So we didn't actually get in the pool or the sea! Crazy. After two days we decided to move on to Venice.

We got here this morning via bus to Litisana and a train from there to Quatro d'altimo. Our hotel is just beside the railway but not noisy. Henry and Bella were very tired so they were sent to bed for a big rest. Thankfully the staff let us go to our room early. While the grumpies slept I went for a walk around the town. I didn't get very far but saw a little snake and people picking grapes and many gated properties. Someone did a big deal here with selling automatic gates. I also found good coffee and a fresh bread shop nearby.

Once the monsters awoke we got the train into Venice. A great service which is regular, clean, easy to use and took us right to the heart of the city. We didn't get into the city until about 4pm which was great as we could go a little later than usual without the kids being too tired.

At first we got hopelessly lost but then after a while you get used to it and figure how to find your way through the twisting turning dead ends. It is amazing thinking people have lived here for so long. We walked through a church that was completed in 1350 I think and had taken a hundred years to build as so many secessive plagues had stopped progress. The architecture is stunning and there are things to see at every turn.

We were prepared for very expensive meals but didn't find it that bad. There are cheap options outside the main spots and away from the Gucci/Prada district. We're taking the train there again tomorrow to watch the All Blacks vs Italy. Should be good.

Crazy travel

Well I'm sitting in the Delta Chelsea hotel on Gerrard st, Downtown Toronto, Canada. Yesterday we had a full day here with wendy's Aunt, Rosemary. We had breakfast at the hotel, note to self this is expensive. As ever we over ordered again. Then we wandered through the area there is a huge mall here with a cool display of Canada geese that look like they are flying through it. We tried to go to the CN Tower but there was a 1.5 hr wait and it was getting to lunch time so we wandered back to a pub via the street vendors. Waitresses had the shortest skirts, micro, was a sight to see. Finally had Buffalo wings. Next we booked for the Hippo tour which is a bus which goes around the city then into the lake! Henry fell straight asleep on the tour but Wendy and I liked it. Bella did a running commentary the whole trip, non stop and sang. She has started singing all the time about anything. That's the Steiner training I think? Poor Henry has to walk everywhere but we got a $19.99 buggy in NY for Bella so she gets to sleep still. Hen does get very tired with all the going around. We are going to need to find some balance between seeing lots of stuff and letting the kids have a quiet time during the day too. Part of this trip is just to be around the children together rather than working and being seperate.

We got into Toronto on Saturday midday from Montreal via VIA rail. Very comfortable train journey with access to power for laptops, (It's everywhere now, planes, trains and automobiles). Went out Sat night to Bryce Wylde's house in North East Toronto. He's now a leading Naturopathic Dr in Canada. Last time I saw him he was studying towards this in 1997. It was so good to catch up. I am left thinking I wish we'd left more time for Canada. It has been quite a rush from NY on the train to Montreal then to here and now we're off to Frankfurt today and then Venice tomorrow. A big day. Hopefully the children will sleep well on the plane.

We'll be on the bus in about an hour then leave at 5pm and arrive 7am Frankfurt local time (midnight here time) then have midnight snack/morning tea with Andreas from Germany (friend of Wendy's from NY). I'm going to take meds before flying to help me sleep. No coffee for me until we get to Frankfurt. Might even give some to Henry there! I thought the travel would be less tiring but a new city every couple of days is not the way to do it. I'm looking forward to staying in one place for a little while in Europe. Maybe we'll go stay with the Zettinigs in Austria. We have a flight booked to Paris from Venice but we could just forget that if we can tag along with the Euros and get a free place to stay. After that we may work our way up to Andreas in Nuremburg or over to France. We don't have much booked until we fly out on 15th Jan from Rome so can make it up.

I'd really like to get to Morocco and some of the countries with different cultures to ours, less developed but with the children we need to consider safety so check out the place carefully first.

Anyway catch up soon in Europe! Wahoo

Cuisine

We've been taking the subway and buses all over town. The subway is good, pretty clean but can get really hot in the stations. Not sure why but it's hotter in the stations than outside. Thankfully the trains are air conditioned otherwise it is just too like being stuck in the men's loos in the Manners mall movie theatre. Suffice to say, not good. It's only $2 on a train and you can transfer to a bus for no cost within 30 mins. I know that's a boring fact but still.


Yesterday we went Downtown and walked south. You know with kids you notice different things. Like there are no public toilets in this city (well none when you need one). I'm sure there's a business opportunity there. I've been told it's been tried before and didn't work. I've read that the phone boxes that are all over Manhattan are hardly used but that they make money out of advertising on the side of them. How about some pay loos!

Anyway, yesterday we went to Chinatown, bought cheesy T-shirts for friends. We had a great lunch at a little Chinese restaurant. We'd been searching for something that kind of fitted our meager budget and plates of beef stirfry with rice at $3.50 and rice soup at $0.90 certainly seemed to fit. Of course after seeing the place next door was about $16 - 20 a plate we ordered up big thinking the portions would be tiny. Well we ended up with doggy bags of steamed pork buns, spring rolls and left a whole load of rice after stuffing ourselves.

Next we wandered into the financial district and looked at the amazing old architecture. It's worth looking up as you wander around NYC. There are gargoyles, copper roofs, floors that go on and on. Of course we were due for another toilet stop for the kids, and there were none. But there was a Dunkin' Donuts...aaah.

Once we were done with that we went across to a nice little park. There are parks everywhere here. Not big but nice little oasis spots in the middle of the concrete jungle. There was a fountain with coins in it. Henry and Bella saw there were coins in it. So Henry wanted to get some change from me. Before he threw them in I said make a wish but don't tell me what you wish for. Plop went the coins then Henry told me what he'd wished for...A maid.

Columns, Cultures crossing, crisp sheets

We're in New York. Home to millions of people from all corners of the world. My first impressions. Damn we came at rush hour. Peggy wonderfully had arranged a limo to pick us up. The driver met us at the gate after our uncomfortable flight. He was from India originally but seemed to have been here for many years. Traffic was slow but it allowed us to appreciate the trip into the city. Both the kids fell asleep on the ride in which was good. They need their rests.

We were dropped at the door on Park Ave, nice. Look up and there are about 20 floors looming. Columns of buildings sprout everywhere in neat lines. The city is very well laid out. Especially designed for tourists to get around easily. Apart from the park which i still am having difficulty with. It's hard to see landmarks once you are in the park and the paths curve so it's quite disorientating. We've been lost each time we've gone to the park. Did a big loop yesterday looking for the zoo. Henry has been very good apart from when he's getting tired and hungry and we've been telling him for half an hour "not long now". Poor guy.

The subway is good and fairly easy to use as long as you keep a careful watch on which way you are going. We've been taking a small stroller around for Bella and it's not been any hassle apart from the entry and exit gates. We got to Grand Central on Sunday while on our way to Blues Brews and BBQ's. It is quite a sight. Amazing painting on the ceiling which is so high it must have cost a packet to get scaffolding up there when they cleaned it recently. I noticed a lot of police and one fully Combat gear army guy. All armed of course but only with pistols. I'm still waiting to see London. I remember there were sub machine guns 10 years ago so who knows what they have now.

New York feels great. It's not as noisy as I'd expected. Park Ave is quiet apart from the maoning sirens occasionally. Ambulances sound like ghosts or wailing children. There seem to be a few fire engines around. You'd hope so with all these high rise apartments. Did you read about the 2 firefighters killed in the Deutsche bank building that was being torn down floor by floor. I'd been reading the day before about how they were pulling it apart bit by bit because of damage from Sept 11.

Anyway we are safe and very comfortable here in our little haven. Provided so generously by Peggy. We are hoping for better weather tomorrow as it's been really rainy. Was hot last week but today I had a long sleeve top on and a rain coat. I'm looking forward to exploring the city on a bike there are some great paths around the park and along the Hudson river.